Anarkali suits are one of the most popular dresses for women. They are usually worn on special occasions like weddings, family get-togethers and festivals. Usually stitched with thin materials like georgettes, silks, chiffons, tissues etc they look elegant and stunning. Anarkali suits are usually worn with churidhars or gathering pants
The basic Anarkali suit can be stitched at home by following the instructions given below. I would suggest that you refer How to stitch normal kameez before proceeding.
0 to 2 – 1/6 chest +1"
2 to 3 – 1/4 chest + 1" or 1 ¼ " or 1 ½”
0 to 4 – half shoulder
4 to 5 – 1/2"
0 to 6 – 1/6 round neck + 1/2”
0 to 7 - Back Neck depth (standard = 3”)
6 to 8 - Front Neck depth (standard = 6”)
0 to 9 – Waist length minus 2” (since anarkali has a high waist)
9 to 10- ¼ waist + 1” or 1 ¼” or 1 ½”
For stitching an anarkali top, you need two materials, one main and one for the lining. The lining cloth should always be of the same colour as the main cloth.
To begin with, first measure and note down the body measurements. Then prepare a draft on a paper using the construction given above and cut on the marked lines. Keep the draft ready.
Now take the cloth, fold it in the reverse such that the two selvedges of the cloth are on top of each other. Then fold again such that the two ends are on top of each other. Now you will have 4 layers. Make sure that you are seeing the reverse part.
Place the draft on top of the cloth and mark the outline on the cloth using a chalk. Then leaving 1” extra cloth along the sides and ½” extra cloth along the neck, shoulder and armhole, cut the cloth. The front and back necks and arm holes have to be cut separately because their curves are different. Hence take care while cutting it. The shoulder line of all the four layers must be equal. Repeat the same procedure to cut the lining cloth.
Once the main cloth and lining cloth is cut for the front and back portions of the anarkali, stitch them together along all the sides and curves with long stitches. This is done to hold main and lining pieces in place. Now you will have 2 pieces, 1 for the front and another for the back. Then complete the neck and sleeves. For these refer FINISHING THE NECK and CUTTING NORMAL SLEEVES, CUTTING PUFF SLEEVES and CUTTING LONG SLEEVES for the construction. Once the neck part is completed and the sleeves are cut, stitch it to the armholes.
Now for the lower part, take a cloth, fold such that the two selvedges are on top of each other. Use the following measurements to cut two pieces for the front and back.
Breadth = 3 times 9 to 10 measurement
Length = actual length of the kameez minus current 0 to 9 measurement
In the same way cut the lining cloth. After cutting the two cloths, take the main and lining cloth and pleat it together and stitch with the front side of the upper part. Similarly pleat and stitch the other two cloths with the back part of the upper part.
Use the following measurements and cut 2 pieces of the remaining main cloth and lining cloth to get a band. Take 1 main band and 1 lining band and stitch it in the reverse on both sides leaving ends open and turn to the correct side. Do the same thing with the other 2 pieces. Stitch at the joints of the front and back portions.
a to b = twice 9 to 10 measurement + 2” extra
a to c = 1 ½ “ or 2” +1” extra for stitching
Now stitch both the sides starting from the sleeve ends to the upper part of the top. For the lower part, stitch the lining and the main part separately at the sides. The bottom end of the lining should be double folded 2” to 3” whereas the bottom end of the main dress can be double folded 1/2" or a pico can be stitched.