HOW TO STITCH A KAMEEZ WITH COLLAR / SEWING BASICS



Collars, especially the Chinese collars can be stitched on kameez and Kurtis. They are small standing collars with front opening and are usually stitched with thick materials or a stiffener is stitched so that the collar stands stiff. Chinese collars are of two types full Chinese and half Chinese. Full Chinese collar is a basic collar covering the entire neck whereas half Chinese has half collar and half normal neck. Kameez with collars are usually worn with Churidhars or gathering pants.The construction and method of stitching a kameez/ top with collar is given below.


Chinese collar

Construction (Common for both full and half Chinese collar)

0 to 1 = Half Round neck (e.g. 7 ½”)
0 to 2 = 1”
2 to 3 = collar width = e.g. 1 ½”
1 to 4 = collar width – ½” = 1”
1 to 5 = ½”
Join 2 to 5, 4 to 5 and 3 to 4 as shown



Cut two pieces of cloth using the above measurements leaving 1/2” allowance on all sides except the fold. The same construction can be used for stitching both half and full Chinese collars. Place the two pieces on top of each other and stitch on the reverse along 4 to 5 and 4’ to 5’ and 5 to 5’ line and then turn to the correct side. The cloth along 4’ to 4 is attached to the neck part of the top.

Full Chinese collar

Full Chinese collars usually have a front opening.

Construction for kameez/ top

0 to 6 = 1/6 round neck = (2 ¼”)
0 to 7 = ½” (Back neck)
0 to 8 = 1/6 round neck + 1”= (3”)

Approximate measurements are given in brackets so that you may have an idea.

The other measurements are the same as for a normal kameez.


Mostly full Chinese collars are stitched with tops with front opening. Hence if you are stitching a top with full front opening then leave 2 1/2" allowance along the 0 to 9 line for the front part of the top and using the measurements cut the top leaving the required allowances. Refer how to stitch a top for more details. After cutting the top first begin by joining the front and back pieces of the top at the shoulders and then stitch the collar part at the neck making sure that you fold the extra cloth of the collar and stitch such that the extra cloth along the neck of the top is sandwiched inside the collar. Make sure that the finishing is perfect. Once the neck part is stitched, you can double fold the extra cloth along the front opening of the top. For a fake front opening stitch the two front pieces together leaving 4" or 5" on top. The opening can be finished by double folding the cloth or stitching facing pieces of cloth. Once the neck is ready, attach the sleeves and complete stitching the kameez in the same way as that of normal kameez. Finally stitch buttons or hooks and your kameez with collar is ready.

Half Chinese collar

Construction for kameez/top

0 to 6 = 1/6 Round neck
0 to 7 = ½”
6 to 8 = 6” or 7” (Front neck)

The other measurements are the same as for a normal kameez.



Using the measurements cut the top leaving the required allowances. Refer how to stitch a top for more details. After cutting the top first begin by joining the front and back pieces at the shoulders and then stitch the collar part at the neck making sure that you fold the extra cloth along 4 to 4’ and stitch such that the extra cloth along the neck of the top is sandwiched between the two layers of the collar. Then finish the neck by stitching facing pieces. Refer finishing the neck for details. Once the neck is ready, stitch the sleeves and complete stitching the dress in the same way as you stitch a normal kameez.



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7 comments:

  1. thanks for sharing this useful post..very well..

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  2. this is very useful post. thanks for sharing amina.
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  3. great instructions. Thank you very much.

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  4. Thanks a lot for this post Amina...

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  5. GOOD INSTRUCTIONS .
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  6. Thanks for helpful posts... I am a beginner in coking and your baking tips are so very useful.. May God bless..

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  7. Very helpful and easily understandable directions..good job!

    ReplyDelete

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