Before beginning to stitch a salwar, it is necessary to learn how to stitch ankle bands, waist bands and draw string which are essential for stitching all types of salwars.
How to stitch a waist band
Cut one single piece for the waist band using the following measurements
0 to 1 = waist band width (i.e. 8”) +2”= 10”
0 to 2 = full hip +6” (e.g. 41”)
1 to 3 = full hip +6”
Fold the cloth on the reverse and stitch at the ends joining 0 to 2 and 1 to 3 leaving 1” allowance near the edges and 1 ½” allowance on top. The 1 1/2” of cloth is left unstitched because the upper part has to be folded and stitched for inserting the draw string. But before folding on top, double fold the extra 1” that we have left at the sides inwards and stitch as shown in the figure. This is done to prevent threads from coming out from the edges.
Next double fold the upper part of the waist band and stitch on top. The waist band is now ready to be attached to the leg part of the salwar.
How to stitch ankle bands to the salwar
Ankle bands are usually stitched at the foot part of the salwar and Patialas so that the salwar stands stiff. Whereas for churidhars (gathering pants), this is not necessary.
For cutting the cloth for the ankle band, the measurements are
Length: Ankle length (e.g. 12” or 14”)
Cut two pieces of cloth following the above measurements and keep ready. Once the leg part of the salwar is cut, place the reverse side of the ankle band over the front side of the leg part and stitch as shown in the figure. To make the ankle band more stiff, a buckram (or cloth stiffener) is usually stitched along with the ankle band as shown. The length of the cloth stiffener is the same as the ankle band whereas the width is about 2 and 1/2”. Once stitched, turn the leg part to the front side, fold on the stitched line and stitch near the end to keep the ankle band in place. Then double fold the extra cloth of the ankle band such that the width remains 2” and stitch on top. Stitch two or three lines on the ankle band to make it stiff. Follow the same method to stitch the ankle band to the other leg.
How to stitch a draw string
Take a long piece of cloth of length = full hip +16” and breadth = 1 ½”. Fold ¼” on all the sides and fold again and stitch on top on all three sides making sure that the threads do not come out.