HOW TO STITCH A PATIALA SALWAR / SEWING BASICS




Patiala salwar have always remained in fashion. They are a great blend of utility and style which makes them a must have in our wardrobe. Patiala salwars are worn with short tops or kurtis and are usually stitched with cotton, satin materials, etc. Patialas with embroidery and patchwork are also very popular. Patiala salwars require more cloth than an ordinary salwar. While ordinary salwars require about 2 ½ metres of cloth, patiala salwars require nearly 3 ½ metres of cloth.

Basically a patiala salwar has 3 parts.
  • One waist band
  • 2 kalli pieces (one for each leg)
  • 4 triangle shaped pieces (two for each leg)
Apart from this draw string and ankle bands also have to be stitched.


Given below is the construction and method for stitching a patiala salwar. 

Measurements needed

Length of the salwar (41”)
Hip (35”)
Round ankle (11” + 1” for stitching allowance)

Approximate measurements are given in brackets. This is only for reference. Take your own measurements and use it to stitch the patiala salwar.

Construction

For the legs

0 to 1 = salwar length – waist band width (i.e. 8”) + 1” (e.g. 41”-8”+1” = 34”)
0 to 2 = Full cloth width
1 to 3 = Full cloth width
1 to 4 = 3”
2 to 5 = 3”
6 to 7 = (1/3 hip) + 1 ½” – waist band width
8 to 7 = (1/3 hip) + 1 ½” – waist band width
Join 5 to 4

Method

First take the required amount of cloth and open fully. Then fold it into half in the reverse side such that the two ends of the cloth are on top of each other.



Take the ends as 1 and 3.

0 to 2 and 1 to 3 are full cloth widths.

From the edge leave ½” allowance and mark the 0 to 1 measurement (e.g. 34”) as shown. Similarly mark 2 as shown. Draw a straight line joining 0 and 2.

Then from 1 and 2, measure 3” respectively as shown to get 4 and 5. Join 4 and 5.



Now calculate 6 to 7 and 8 to 7 measurements and mark as shown in the figure.(If for e.g. it is 6” then take an inch tape and place over 5 measurement. Start moving towards 0 upto the point you measure 6”on the 5 to 4 line. Mark 7 on the line as shown)

Now cut the cloth at the 4 to 5 line and 0 to 2 line.

Place all the 4 layers on top of each other and leave 1/2 “ at the top and along the diagonal. Leave 1/2” allowance at the 6 to 7 line as well and cut the cloth. Both the Patiala legs are stitched together at this line.
Now, using the remainder of cloth cut the kalli pieces, ankle bands and waist band.



Kalli piece

Cut two pieces using the following measurements

0 to 1 = salwar length – waist band width + 1”
0 to 2 = approximately 13” (including stitching allowance. The maximum that we can take is 16”)
1 to 3 = approximately 13”

Waist band

Cut one single piece for the waist band using the following measurements

0 to 1 = waist band width (i.e. 8”) +2”= 10”
The 2” extra is taken to make the opening for inserting the draw string.
0 to 2 = full hip +6” (e.g. 46”)
1 to 3 = full hip +6”

After cutting the pieces, place them in this way.



Stitch the 3 pieces of one leg together. Do the same thing with the other leg.

Then measure the a to b distance as shown and cut 2 ankle bands with this length and 5” breadth. Cut buckram (cloth stiffener) of the same length and 2” breadth. Now stitch the two ankle bands along with the buckram pieces to the foot part of both the legs. For this refer Basics of stitching a salwar.

Once the two legs are ready, join the two legs at the 6 to 7 line. Then take the waist band, stitch the two ends together in the reverse leaving 1” allowance near the edges and 1 ½” allowance on top. Double fold the excess cloth at the sides inwards and stitch. Next, double fold on top for the draw string and stitch on top. For detailed explanation, refer how to stitch waistband.

Once the waist band is ready, stitch the legs to the waist band taking 1/2” pleats throughout the circumference of the waist band. Make sure that the pleats are evenly distributed and yet cover the entire circumference. You can do long stitches with a thread and needle and check if it comes out perfect. Make a draw string and insert through the opening in the waist band. Finish the salwar by overlocking the cloth in the reverse to prevent thread from coming out. Patiala salwar is now ready.


You can also have a look at other tutorials....



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10 comments:

  1. very useful info.. thanks for sharing it..

    ReplyDelete
  2. I finally got the old sewing machine fixed with a motor n all... But I found out that it is quite complicated for me to put the thread around... I need to figure that out with someones help...

    I hope I'll be able to use ur patterns to stich some good stuff... It's a long way to go... But a girl can hope right? :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I am sure you will learn it fast.. some basics is all you need to get started... :)

      Delete
  3. It was very useful to me. Thanks a lot Amina.

    ReplyDelete
  4. very useful info. thx

    ReplyDelete
  5. pleats comes in back of salwar also, if yes then what is facing direcion of back pleats

    ReplyDelete
  6. thankyou so much , nice way of teaching instruction like 0to1 0to 2, thank you so much once again, can you teach us how to make dhoti patiala, dhoti churidaar , anad sharara salwar pleas ...............

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I will try to post the tutorials soon in my blog..

      Delete
  7. Thankyou so much for sharing the instructions for patiala salwar. Can you also please post the construction of patiala salwar from a saree? Thanks once again.

    ReplyDelete

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