HOW TO STITCH GATHERING PANTS / CHURIDHAR / SEWING BASICS





A Churidhar or gathering pant is often worn with Anarkali suits or short kurtis. This type of pant can be stitched at home by following the measurements and instructions given below.



Measurements needed

Length: (41”)
Hip: (35”)
Waist to knee length: (22”)
Round knee: (14”)
Round ankle: (9”)

Approximate measurements are given in brackets just for reference. Use your body measurements for stitching the Churidhar.

Material required

2 times length + 20 cms
Generally 2 ½ metres of cloth is required for stitching normal size Churidhar. If 46” or 48” width cloth is available then 2 1/4 metres is sufficient.

Method

First open the cloth fully and fold in the reverse as shown. Then fold it as a triangle as shown below and mark the measurements.



0 to 1 = length + 8” or 10” or 12” – waist band width (8”) = (41” + 10”- 8”= 43”)
0 to 2 = 1/3 hip + 1 ½” – waist band width (8”) = (11 ¾” + 1 ½” – 8” = 5 ¼”)
2 to 3 = 1/3 hip +3”= (14 ¾”)
3 to 4 = 1”
4 to 5 = straight line
0 to 6 = waist to knee length – waist band width (8”) = (22”- 8”= 14”)
6 to 7 = half round knee + ½” = (7” + ½” = 7 ½”)
1 to 8 = half round ankle = (4 ½”)

(Please note that the calculations given in brackets are just for reference. Use your measurements to calculate the above.)



After marking the measurements on the cloth, draw the 3 to 8 curve making sure that it passes slightly outside the 7 measurement. Now cut the cloth leaving 1” allowance along the sides and ends as shown. Then cut pieces with required allowances according to the shape of the missing piece and stitch such that 0253 shape is complete.

After cutting the two legs, we have to cut the waist band. Cut a single piece of cloth using the following measurements.

0 to 1 = waist band width (8”) + 2” = 10”
0 to 2 = Full hip + 6” loose = (41”)
1 to 3 = Full hip + 6” loose = (41”)

Now for the draw string cut a thin piece of cloth using the following measurements

Length = Full hip + 6” loose + 9” or 10” = (50”)
Breadth = 1 ½”

After the cloth is cut and ready, take the two legs and double fold and stitch at the ends. If an opening is needed at the ankle, mark 4” from the ends. From this point ‘a’ start stitching along the 8 to 3 curve. The cloth below the marking ‘a’ has to be double folded and stitched (just as you stitch the side opening for a kurta or kameez). After the two legs are stitched, join the two at the reverse along the 5 to 3 curves.



Next finish the waist band. Refer stitching the waist band for more details. Once the waist band is ready, it has to be stitched to the legs. Take the waist band and make small 1/8” cuts (or mark with a chalk) at a distance of 6” from the centre at b and b’. The pleats on the churidhar have to be stitched between b and b’. Similarly make a small cut at the centre of the back part of the waist band at a.


First start by stitching the legs to the waist band from the back from a. i.e. Start stitching the joint along the 5 to 3 curve and a and stitch for 1” distance. Then fold the cloth to form a single outward pleat of 1” and stitch. (There are only 2 pleats at the back, one on either side.) Continue stitching till you reach b (or b’). Now stop here and start stitching again from a till you reach b’(or b). Now with the remaining cloth on the legs, take even inward pleats and stitch it to the waist band. Make sure that the joint in the centre of the waistband coincides with the joint along the 5 to 3 curve in front. Once the pleats are done, finish the Churidhar by over locking the extra cloth on the reverse to prevent thread from coming out. Insert the draw string through the opening and stitch button or hooks at the ankle opening. Your gathering pant or Churidhar is now ready.



For tutorials on stitching Anarkali suitsanarkali suits with layers and salwar visit their respective pages. Types of salwars, types of kameez and types of anarkali suits can be found here, here and here.




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2 comments:

  1. salams amina,am from sri lanka, masha allah ur way of teaching is so understandable, i do stitch all these but havent really known the correct method, thanks to u now they come out upto mark. thanks ma

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