Anarkali dresses and kurtis usually have long or puff sleeves. The construction, cutting and method of stitching puff sleeves is given below.
0 to 1 = sleeve length
0 to 2 = 1/12 chest + ½”
2 to 3 = 1/6 chest + 2 ½”
1 to 4 = 2 to 3 measurement – 1”
0 to 5 = 1 ½”
4 to 6 = ½”
1 to 7 is midpoint of 1 to 4
Join 1, 7 & 6 as shown
Join 5 & 3 as shown
Place 0 of the inch tape at the shoulder joint and measure the sleeve length till the point where you want the sleeves to end. (Usually puff sleeves are shorter). Measure round arm at this point and note down the two measurements. Open the cloth and fold in the reverse as shown in the picture. Using the body measurements calculate and mark on the cloth. Draw the curves joining 1 7 and 6 and 3 and 5 as shown. Cut the cloth leaving 1” allowance at the sides and ½” allowance at the arm holes and near the round arms.
After the sleeves are cut, cut a deeper arm hold on the front part of each sleeve to coincide with that of the arm hole in the front part of the kameez.
At the point where the sleeve ends, an elastic of length = round arm can be stitched and a picot can be done. Alternately, the ends can be pleated such that the length will reduce to that of the round arm and a thin strip of cloth can be stitched.
As you attach the sleeves to the arm holes of the kameez, make sure to stitch the pleats near the shoulder joint of the kameez. The remaining method of stitching a kameez has already been discussed in earlier posts. Check out these pages for tutorials on stitching kameez and anarkali suits.